Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Destination Chadar

Prelude


The countdown has started. Officially it starts from today. I just booked the tickets for Delhi to Leh and Leh to Delhi for 30th January and 9th February, 2016 respectively. I sent the screen shot to Rohit (Rohit Khattar runs the agency I am going with) and he said you are confirmed.

Those who might not know, the river Zanksar in Ladakh runs through a canyon of sorts where it freezes in winter months. For many locals this is the only opportunity to come to the town of Leh when they walk on the blanket on the river. (Rest of the year they stay marooned in their villages as there is no bridge or the land route is very very long. ) This hike has become quite popular of late with trekkers. The extreme cold climate and rough terrain is both a challenge and intensely beautiful to the non-Ladakhis like us.

Most trek till a point called Nerak. I will be going to a village called Lingshid, reputed as the remotest village in India. Some spend as many as 15 days on the full chadar going right upto Padum. This trek is threatened and its future is uncertain as a new road is being buit, which once completed, will take the mystery and remoteness out of the walk. That's one of the reasons why I want to complete this as early as possible.

I haven't felt so excited about a trek in a long time. Of course I am going alone. The official leave was sanctioned today. I didn't waste a moment to book the basic ticket after getting that. I will do the Calcutta-Delhi sector later. 

There are many possible dampeners that might crop up and ruin the trip. I am well aware of that. For example, fog in the Delhi area in winter often causes havoc and sends flight timings haywire. Last year a landslide ruined the Chadar trek altogether. Yet keeping my fingers crossed. Anything can happen. But if all is well I am determined to go. 

I have to do some equipment shopping. I have been doing the window shopping for long because I knew such a day would come. Now is the time to get down into the act of buying them up.

First in the list is a down sleeping bag. I am going to procure it from a store in Rishikesh called Adventure Axis (click here to go to their site). I have already spoken to them. The guy's name is Nitin Goel. I just need to put the money into their account. They will ship it to me. I guess, once it comes over I will get a liner too and a few other equipment as well. But let this most important item come over safe and sound. 

Let me write down all the items I need to take. And then I can work out what all will be needed and what all need to be bought. 

  1. Air mattress 
  2. Sleeping bag
  3. Sleeping bag liner
  4. Socks (six woolens to be bought)
  5. Long socks for the night (I have)
  6. Thermal inners (two sets)
  7. Kappa trousers
  8. Max trousers (to be bought)
  9. Spencer's trousers
  10. Rainwear lower (Wildcraft)
  11. Full sleeve t-shirts (four - perhaps will need to be bought)
  12. Inner vests (four at least)
  13. Briefs (as many as I have)
  14. Quechua fleece
  15. Columbia fleece
  16. Marmot raincover
  17. Marmot down jacket 
  18. Warm balaclava
  19. Headwear 
  20. Quechua sun hat
  21. Timberland shoes with Goretex lining 
  22. Gum boots (to be bought from and sold back in Leh)
November 26, 2015

Today I put money into Adventure Axis's bank account and sent them my address. They are couriering me a black First Ascent Ice Breaker sleeping bag (here is the link). It's a down bag and hopefully should keep me sufficiently warm and serve me in other treks in future. Keeping my fingers crossed that it will reach me safe. First Ascent is a South African brand. I read up on them. The reviews are fairly good. Many who go to Kilimanjaro somehow buy this brand :-) Probably because they are big in SA. 

Today I also bought a pair of base layer Quechua gloves from Amazon. I think I am going to use two pairs of gloves for the trek. 

I am wondering what to wear during the trek. That is, when I am actually walking. My plan is this. First wear a drifit T-shirt. On top put a thermal. On top my Quechua fleece. Over that Proline sweater, followed by Columbia fleece. Top all this up with the Marmot rain cover. If that does not suffice, put the down jacket on. Rohit says use the down jacket as your outer layer. 

The only problem with doing that is that the rucksack straps will have an abrasive effect on the shoulders. I thought I would use that when we stop for the day. 

I am wondering whether to get a hardshell. Bobby says the hardshells are uncomfortable. We will chat about it around the end of the week when he has more time. He has promised me a thermal when he comes to India in early December. 

For the lower part of the body, my plan is to wear a pair of synthetic trousers. Like my Kappa. This will obviously be over the base thermal. Over the Kappa I intend to wear the Wildcraft water proof trousers. The only problem with that is that it is a little too heavy. Can I walk in them the whole day? 

I have to actually wear these all and test them out in Calcutta !!!! 

November 29, 2015


The First Ascent Ice Breaker arrived at my office last night. In two days flat. I am really impressed. I had left office in the afternoon. The courier left it with our security guards. Monisha and I went at night to fetch it home. My prized possession !!!

I am really impressed by Nitin Goel, the owner's professionalism. He packed it well. As soon as he got the courier's consignment note number, he sent its image to me by whatsapp. Overnite courier also delivered well. Fantastic all round service.

I have yet to take the bag out and test it out. Let me see, when I get the heart to take it out of its packaging.

I have a few other things to buy. A liner to sleep in inside the bag. A pair of good expedition grade socks. A trekking pole. An insulated pant, perhaps Columbia. Bobby has offered to bring me a thermal base layer. If he misses it, I will get one of those as well. 

After The Unpacking


I took the sleeping bag out of its pack just now to first of all see what is there inside and also to let it spread out in the open so that it gains back some loft. It must have been sitting in the shop in Rishikesh for long and God only knows for how long before then.

Three or four individual downs were sticking out just a microbit. I pulled them in. Apparently it is normal in a new bag. it's good that the colour is mostly black and blue. White down sticking out is easily visible.

The principal colours of the bag are blue, black and some red. After Mampu's joy ride in the bag, I went in. Within a couple of minutes my legs started sweating. But that's Calcutta in autumn. I doubt if this will be enough in Chadar. I think I am mentally comparing it to the expedition grade bag that I had since mid 80s. I had bought it second hand in Thamel. It was definitely an 8K expedition material. If this bag's fill is 850, that bag was perhaps 3000 :-)

But this will have to do for me. Actually the agency will give us the bags. Perhaps I will use one from them and this as the base layer. They recommend two bags for Chadar.

Let me see how much loft it gains back (it already has some). I wonder if it will ever match my image of a sleeping bag, given that I had started with an 8K expedition quality one. 

Columbia Bugaboo II Pants

I went to the Columbia store in South City Mall to take a look at the Bugaboo Pants. They didn't have one in my size but only in XL. Nevertheless, I checked it out in the trial room and indeed it was pretty big for me. But it's a fantastic pair of trousers and will eminently suit my need in Chadar, for sure, in terms of warmth. I asked them if they can get it for me in size L. They said by Wednesday. Keeping my fingers crossed. I told them clearly that I don't want to buy it online just to encourage their outlet and keep it going. Let's see wht happens. 

November 30, 2015

Today my base layer for the gloves has apparently arrived in office. I was out of office the whole day, busy with preparing the art work for the calendar. Will check it out tomorrow to see how it is. I will need something over it. In Kathmandu, 30 years ago, Nabab-da and I had bought a pair of Tibetan woolen gloves. They were absolutely brilliant. I don't know if they would be enough for Chadar but if you pair it up with another something, it should be enough. I still have them and will check them out. Just for kicks :-)

December 2, 2015

I did check out the pair of gloves. A little thicker than an ordinary pair of socks. Fits me very well. I hope it works as a good base layer. It should be fine to use it as a base layer. But I will definitely need something substantial over it.

I had a discussion with Nitin Goel of Adventure Axis on the subject of sleeping bag liner. He said silk, which is more than Rs 3500, is definitely more comfortable but not easy to handle - both within the bag and outside. Cotton at Rs 1500, is much easier to handle. I am going for a cotton one. I am also going for an expedition grade pair of socks and a walking stick from him.

December 8, 2015

Today there was a good news and a bad news. Good news is that our board meeting for 3rd quarter will happen on 21st January. That's great. Because last year it happened on 30th January and I was a little worried about it. But that was more of an aberration than a norm.

The bad news is that due to an earthquake in Tajikistan there has been a small landslip near Manali. I called Rohit to find out what is the news from Leh. He said he was right now in Mandi where the landslip has happened. And nothing much has happened in Chadar.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

I also booked the Delhi-Calcutta flight. Actually Monisha did the booking. While booking the Calcutta-Delhi flight the price increased during the process of transaction. So we stopped the booking. Let me see what happens tomorrow or later in the night.

January 9, 2016

I have recently purchased a few items for the Chadar trek. Few more are yet to be finalised. The list is as follows


  • Two pairs of Teko Merino expedition grade socks
  • One trekking poleRab cotton sleeping bag liner
  • Columbia base layer - both upper and lower
  • Columbia fleece trousers
  • A Petzl head torch. The most basic model
I need to buy a pair of hand gloves and a balaclava (monkey cap). Have to visit New Market for this last item.

January 13, 2016 - Testing Time

Last night I tried some of the items on to see how they fit when worn with other things. I did it only for the lower body items.

The Teko Merino socks are superb. They are thick. Expedition grade. I was a little worried that my shoes might not fit when I wear those. But I found the Timberlands are fitting perfectly. The Quechua felt a little tight. But nothing very uncomfortable. I am going to take the Timberlands in any case. On Chadar one walks with gum boots on that you buy from Leh. But I want to carry the Timberlands in case we have to climb the hills. So, the Teko issue is sorted.

Next I tried out the layerings on the legs. First I wore the Columbia base layer. On top I wore the Columbia fleece. Over it I put the Mountain Hardwear on. All three felt perfectly fine. If this feels a little too much warmth, then I can take the fleece off an put the red Kappa on. If it does not feel adequate, I can add the red Kappa to the three but under the Mountain Hardwear.

I have packed all these into a plastic bag already.


  1. Columbia base layer lower
  2. Old silk base layer lower
  3. Red Kappa track pants
  4. Columbia fleece lower
  5. Mountain Hardwear pants
  6. Teko Merino socks - two pairs
  7. Technical wool socks old
  8. Striped cap
  9. Beige cap
  10. Gloves inner layer
January 25, 2016

I have packed the other items in another plastic bag. The list is as follows

  1. Old base layer upper
  2. Columbia base layer upper
  3. Bobby's black zip full sleeve
  4. HD Lee
  5. Max half sleeve striated
  6. Black Quechua fleece
  7. Marmot Precip rainwear
Apart from these I have put in the walking stick, the Rab sleeping bag liner, the sleeping bag itself inside the sack. I am also taking Mampu's rucksack. Because I will have to offload some load with a porter. 

Items that are yet to be loaded are as follows

  1. Pure wool monkey cap
  2. Two pairs of pure wool socks
  3. Marmot down jacket
On the trip to Delhi and Leh I shall be wearing the Timberland shoes with Bobby's socks, For pants I will go with the olive polyester pants from Spencer's. Above I shall wear the black Max, maroon Adidas full sleeve and the black Australia hoodie.

I checked that it is quite possible to wear the hoodie over the down. So I will carry both of them.

I have to pack three important things now. A. Camera and associated electronics B. Medicines C. This and that.

January 26, 2016

Today I laid out all my items on the bed for a final check up. Here is what I am taking for this trip



  1. Sleeping bag - First Ascent
  2. Sleeping bag liner - Rab 
  3. Walking stick (hardly visible)
  4. Quechua fleece 
  5. Columbia base layer lower
  6. HD Lee upper
  7. Columbia fleece pants
  8. Bobby quarter zip
  9. Technial wool socks (for sleeping in the night)
  10. Striated Max (half sleeve T-shirt for emergency)
  11. Teko Merino expedition grade socks (two pairs)
  12. Pure wool socks for emergency (made in India)
  13. Columbia thermal upper
  14. Pure wool balaclava
  15. Beige faux wool cap
  16. Mountain Hardware trousers
  17. Marmot down jacket
  18. Marmot Precip rainwear
  19. Old thermals for lower (emergency)
  20. Old thermals for upper (emergency)
  21. Cotton towel
  22. Kappa track pants
A few notes on the equipment - I am not taking the air matress. Because of its bulk and weight. I am also taking two rucksacks. Mine and Bebu's. I will give Bebu's to the porter and carry mine. I checked the weight of the sack. I don't think I want to carry that, given that there is an option to offload it to the porter.

I would rather take two lenses - the 24-70 and 400. I will be carrying substantial quantity of food and snacks. The Warmee itself is pretty heavy.

I have been sick for the last one month or so. Got bogged down by a series of different diseases. Right now the problem is I have taken so much anti-biotics that all the gut flora is dead. I am on a strict diet and taking Econorm - two sachets twice daily. Let me see how I keep.