Sandakphu. One More Time

I had gone to Sandakphu in the January of 1990. Alone. I used to work in Bhutan then and had come home on my first winter vacation. None of my friends wanted to join me for the trek. So I went alone. It was a thoroughly enjoyable trip. I remember all the silly things I did or did not do alone. I saw snow in Sandakphu and on the way back in Rimbik forest. I had come down via Bikaybhanjang straight to Rimbik through the dense rhododendron forest and completely alone. I didn't feel scared even once. Not even when I lost my way in the forest or was bitten by a whelping bitch at Sandakphu that cold night.

Then in 1999 Monisha and I went once again. This time accompanied by Ambarish and his wife Bidisha. We took a porter. We came back via Gurdung and Srikhola. It was, once again, a thoroughly enjoyable trip (but for the Gurdung descent and its impact on the thighs). I discovered lots of things had changed in those nine years. Tumling in Nepal was now a full fledged tourist village. The route through Bikay is not taken by anyone any more. People come down via Gurdung, etc. 

Now it's time to take Mampu along. She is ten years and a few months old now. We are leaving on 21st of March by Darjeeling Mail. I am all excited about the trip. After all, it's been close to 15 years and we have not trekked once in this period. Our leaves are sanctioned. Our tickets are booked. Both for going and coming back. It's now a question of waiting with bated breath. Ushnik and Jhulan are also booked for the trip. However, they are not too sure. Leaves might get cancelled at the last moment etc. We are keeping our fingers crossed. Ushnik has been trekking regularly and would be quite an asset to have in the group.

Actually Sandakphu for me this time is more of a "checking out" trek. My real intention is to go for the Chadar trek in Ladakh. I had thought of doing it this year itself. But then I thought instead of starting off with such a hard trek after so many years of inactivity, let me test my muscles out on the better known Sandakphu trail. My leg muscles tighten up easily these days after a little bit of exercise. I am worried about the steep climb down. Even in 1999 the climb down from Sandakphu to Gurdung was difficult. 

This year of course we are planning to go to Phalut. So the climb down will be through some other route. But I am sure it will be equally difficult. I am hoping my muscles will hold out.

Material preparation has started in right earnest. We have already booked Darjeeling Mail. Sophie brought a down jacket for me from Germany. A Marmot, no less. It is not a hiking jacket but I got it principally for the Chadar trek where night time temperatures climb down often to -20. These jackets are needed when you stop or retire for the day. It is the best man made thing I have ever put on my body. It is comfortable with a capital C. 

Regarding camera - I am more concerned about the backpack than the cameras per se. The existing backback won't do. It's too heavy and rigid for a trek. I have made up my mind about getting a Lowepro Flipside 400. Have spoken to Raunaq of Interfoto. He has promised to send it for Rs 5818 which is substantially lower than the Amazon India price.

If this is found to be a good bag I might as well put the other one up for sale. I was in two minds between the 400 and 300. However, the 400's straps look more meant for longer hikes. It also has a raincover. The 300, though adequate in terms of size, looks meant more for day trips in Rajarhat in terms of build quality and the straps. The only risk with a large bag is one tends to put in a lot of unnecessary stuff. I have to discipline myself on that. 

I have just sold my Tokina 11-16 to Sujan. I am not too sure if I want to buy a walk around lens in its place whose width is more manageable. I have half a mind to go for a compact. But then will I be satisfied with the picture quality? Also, I think investment in a lens holds its value for some time. A compact will lose 90 per cent of its value in the resale market almost immediately after purchase. Tanvir apparently has a 24-70 for sale. Let me see. 

Now physical exercise. Monisha and I started walking from yesterday. This morning we woke up pretty late. So we have brought the walking shoes in the car. Let's see if we can find the energy to walk a bit in the evening on our way back home. 

January 30, 2014

The Flipside 400 arrived yesterday. I am really impressed by Interfoto's promptness, not to speak of the discount. The bag didn't impress me much. It doesn't look very robust. It's light. Compact. But not really a proper hiking bag. However, I think it's going to be much better than my Trekker bag for the hike. But I am certainly not putting the Trekker up for sale. If lugging a lot of gear is a priority and not walking then the Trekker is ideal. The Flipside will be ideal for day trips and this type of hikes.

I think I am going to carry just the 7D with the 400 attached, the 450D with a short wide and the tripod in this bag. Perhaps the Edirol too (I am still not sure if I want to take the Marantz on the hike). Monisha will have to help a bit too and carry the binocular and the eTrex. All other camera gear, like Tamron 90 or the various batteries and chargers will go in the porter's bag.

Meanwhile, the Vanguard Endeavor 82A has arrived. Evening of 28th, to be precise. For a first impression read here.

I am going to take it to Sandakphu and try to get a view of Everest from Phalut. It is heavy, no doubt. It will require a tripod. All granted. But I want to really see Everest. I have been shown Everest from Jaubari. I just couldn't make any head or tail of it. No more of all that crap.

I was informed that it is now possible to book the DGHC Trekker's Huts from Calcutta (I think the correct word now is DTA). There is a  guy in Salt Lake. I spoke to him. He said Phalut has a capacity of 20 people. It is possible to book a 4-bedded room for Rs 500 from Calcutta. The guy's name is Suvankar Paul and his number is 9903174047. I don't think booking Phalut makes much sense. Because I am not sure if we can make it to even Meghma :-)

Forgot to mention the Quechua hiking boots I got a few months ago. It's an unheard of brand. But the boot is quite nice, at least on the plain roads of Calcutta. The grip is pretty good. Have to test it out in the mountains though.

January 31, 2014

Went for an early morning walk to the Lake with Monisha. Reached at around 5.25. It was pitch dark and quite chilly. I was perhaps the only adult in shorts and half sleeve T-shirt. But it was fun. Walked fast and did 60x3 skippings and some stretches. Felt a little niggling pain in the knee later in the morning. Walked up the stairs at office. It wasn't so painful. Let me see how the knees hold out.

This morning I checked out the scope from the rooftop. There is a bit of fringing. But I suppose that's the reason why it is priced so low compared to the more sophisticated ones. The image was good and magnification was mind boggling. Sadly enough I could check out only a few crows on a distant neighbour's house. The real test of the scope will be on the sea shore. 

February 3, 2014

Physical preparation is on. In right earnest. Going to the Lake. Walking fast. Skipping. This morning did 80x3. Got Madhav to come on Sunday and loosen up the tight calf muscle and others. The knee is holding out still. I am jumping the rope on the piece of land behind Narayan's tea stall. 

I spoke to Chenku today regarding windcheaters and jackets. He said he might come to Calcutta this week and that he has everything. In fact I have always taken something or the other from him on every trek. I want to put down the list of electronic equipment I want to carry with me this time. 

Camera Related Items  (plastic bag in porter's sack)

1. Battery for 7D
2. Battery for 450D
3. Charger for 7D
4. Charger for 450D
5. All rechargeable pencil batteries
6. Sony charger
7. Shutter release for 7D
8. Shutter release for 450D

Camera and Related Items (Flipside 400 + Monisha's backpack)

1. 7D with tripod ring but no plate - FS
2. 400 F 5.6 (attached to7D) - FS
3. 450D with plate - MB
4. Tamron 90 mm (attached to 450D) - MB (Now, it is Canon 24-70 mm :) 7th Feb)
5. Wide zoom - MB
6. All memory cards - FS
7. Nikon Monarch - FS/MB
8. Edirol R09 (possibly on waist belt)
9. Garmin eTrex (possibly on waist belt)
10. Rocket blower - FS
11. Lenspen - FS
12. Cloth - FS
13. Hoya CPL 77 mm - FS

To Be Carried By Porter

1. Manfrotto XPROB 055 with 496 RC2 head
2. Vanguard Endeavour 82A with eye piece
3. Camera attachment
4. Sennheiser HD 280Pro 

February 7, 2014

Got myself a new lens to go to Sandakphu. The Canon 24-70 L. Well it's new to me. But the lens is old :-) Otherwise I couldn't afford it. Got it from Tanvir. I don't know who the original owner was. I like its sharpness and overall result from some preliminary shooting at home last night. It's quite heavy though. However, Monisha will have to carry it :-) 

I have discovered a good exercise for the quads which I have started doing at home. It's called the wall squat or something. I want my knees to hold on for the few days in Sandakphu. The down climbs are not going to be easy. While going up you can still rest and recuperate. But on the way down, the quads take a long time to recuperate. Weak quads and calves are the main causes of ligament injury. Let's keep the fingers crossed.

Monday March 17, 2014

Time is almost come. We start Friday at night. Preparations are more or less done. Monisha's Forclaz 50 has arrived. Mampu's has been ordered but Snapdeal has goofed up it seems. It was supposed to arrive on 11th but hasn't yet. I think it is stuck in Sales Tax. 

Meanwhile, our plan is somewhat like this. On Saturday we go straight to Dhotre and start walking towards Tonglu if we are within reasonable time. Else we stay back in Dhotre itself. I am told the hike from Dhotre to Tonglu is bird rich and Ushnik says the trail is more gradual than the hike up from Manebhanjang. Next day we go to Gairibas/Jaubari via Tumling. On this route we avoid going to Meghma. We have fond memories of Meghma from the previous trek where we had a hearty lunch. Too bad that we won't be touching it. 

From Gairibas we go to Kalipokhari on Monday and Sandakphu on Tuesday. On the next day we rest at Sandakphu and then on Wednesday we are off to Phalut. From Phalut if we start on Thursday we reach the bus head in a couple of days. That's the plan so far. Let's see what's in store. Given a chance, I would love to stay on in Phalut for another day. 

The other day, I went and bought a cover for the North Face from Alpine for Rs 300. It's a neat thing for the sack and should keep it clean on the trail. 

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Finally got Mampu's Forclaz. I had to personally go to the Bluedart office to collect it. It was supposed to arrive on 11th. Mampu would have got at least one weekend to test it out. Now she will have to go to the mountains with almost a new pair of boots. However, these boots don't need any walking in. My only worry is she has never worn such boots before. And she doesn't have any thick socks to go with it. I hope it has fit her well. She thinks it has. 

From Bluedart went to Tanvir and brought home a used 5D Mk II. The body looks quite new. Obviously it is not. Must have been owned by someone similar to me. It has lot of customised stuff including back button focusing, which works fine for me. Its white balance mode was set at 8600K. Was he a wedding photographer? Metering was on spot mode. I think I quite like the camera. Here is one of the first test shots, taken at 6400 ISO last night. Aperture 2.8. Focal length 70 mm. Metering mode evaluative. Normal tungsten light behind the head. The banner photograph above is also taken with the new old camera.

I hope the camera works fine during the trip. 

The camera comes with a Made in China but Canon original (I hope) battery. My 7D has a battery that has this written, "Cell Made in Japan. Assembled in China". I have asked Suranjan to lend me a battery for the trip. I already have an extra of my own. So that makes it 4 batteries for two cameras. A new battery from Canon's Imagestore costs Rs 2800+. Not now. Yesterday bought a 16 GB CF card from Tanvir. One of those golden ones with Extreme written on it. However, I put a Lexar in the 5D. I will put the 16 GB in the 7D. 

Friday March 21, 2014: 11.35 am

All set for the journey. More or less. I am at work right now. Went to Jogubajar and bought a torch (Rs 150) and some badam takti, tiler biscuit and lozenges. Will have to buy some savoury like dalmut. Yesterday picked up mooger laddu and shon papri from Haldiram. In the evening picked up some Cadbury's and chanachur etc from Spencer's. Nivea too. Monisha bought a pair of slip on shoes. 

A few toiletry items are yet to be purchased like paper soap and hand wash.

We are taking one small sac each. I have the Lowepro, Monisha will carry a Sonic backpack and Mampu carries her own Alpine knapsack that Suvomoy had given her. Our clothings go into the large North Face. The North Face is used only once in a while, but when it is indeed used it looks like the only solution. I don't know what I would have done in such situations without it. We are carrying the Nat Geo bag as well but that will be left behind in Dhotre. It will have stuff for Darjeeling. 

The electronics that's going is this: 5D with 24-70 and 7D with 400 (tripod collar on). Four batteries for the two cameras. The charger and a shutter release cable. Garmin eTrex. Edirol R09. Lots of AA batteries and the charger. And lots of CF cards too. I have bought a new 16 GB card with the 5D. After I come back, I intend to buy another. I will also have to buy a proper battery. I am not taking the scope or the tripod. Monisha is going to carry my Monarch. Because it doesn't fit into my camera bag. It's just large enough for my two cameras with the lenses attached. 

April 7, 2014

We came back as scheduled after successfully completing the trek. We couldn't go to Phalut due to non-cooperation from the porters. So ended up spending four days in Darjeeling. But over all the trek was excellent. If this was a Chadar semi-final, I won the game :-) In terms of birding it was fantastic. Got many many lifers - virtually all of them. A travelogue will come up soon. Till then ............

Backwoods Goa

Goa. To an average Indian the name is synonymous with holiday. Images of blue sea, broad beaches with half or full nude fair-skinned women flash through everyone's mind. To me, however, going to Goa on work for four days meant an opportunity to explore the Malabar endemics in Goa's wildlife sanctuary. At 48 one seeks birds away from the beaches of Baga and Anjuna (something that I had done at 25 already).

I spoke to Backwoods' Leo and Loven (9822144939) for booking their resort near Tambdi Surla. Verbally they told me yes you are booked and will send you a confirmatory email. This email confirmation never came - and I realised much later why it is so. The place is outside the mobile or internet network. Communication for them is not as easy as it is for us.

However, every time I spoke to them they said it was all fixed and there is no need to worry. They would pick me up from my hotel in Panjim. Cost is a flat Rs 3000 per day per head (for two nights and three days I paid Rs 7600). 

Things moved absolutely as per plans and there was not a single step outside what was planned. On the night before my travel I got a call on my mobile from Pramod who said in crisp English that he will come at 5.30 am to pick me up from my hotel. He did exactly that. Incidentally, 5.30 in Goa is like mid-night to us. It's pitch dark. Sun rises there at around 7 am. In a couple of hours we reached 

Henry's With Monisha and Mampu

I have been to coastal West Bengal several times since taking up birding seriously. Mostly with birding friends and as day trips. It was but natural that I should take Monisha and Mampu to those places. 

We booked our hotel in Henry's Island for two nights. However, due to winter rush we didn't get both the nights in the same room. Second night had to be spent in a relatively bad room. But on balance the trip was fun. Mampu simply loved being on the beach of Henry's Island. I am sure we will take this journey many times in future. It is so close from home.

First the route and how to go there if you are on a self drive trip. Once you hit Diamond Harbour Road (NH 117) there isn't much left or right to do till Shirakole. From Shirakole leave the National Highway (it isn't much of a national highway but just a normal road) and keep driving straight towards Usthi along the Usthi Road. Turn right at Usthi and then left once again (almost immediately) to go towards Hatugunge. This turn is very well marked on Google Maps. At Hatugunge you hit the NH 117 once again. 

If you do not take this short cut (the local road is reasonably decent) you can stick to NH 117 and will ultimately reach the same place but through the confusion of Diamond Harbour and after a considerable and meaningless detour. 

After Hatugunge again the road is dead straight till Namkhana. On the way the only notable town is Kakdwip. Just keep to the main road till Namkhana. NH 117 ends in the river Hatania Dowania. Turn left from the large petrol pump that will be on your left hand side. This is a narrow lane that takes you to the ferry ghat for crossing with a vehicle (the straight road goes to passenger boat service ghat). Here you have to wait in a queue of other cars and trucks and buses etc and drive into a ferry (locally known as "vessel") when your turn comes. It is a reasonably disciplined queue. You have to pay a ferry ghat fee of Rs 30 and for the actual crossing the fare is Rs 160. 

Once on the ferry, make sure you have pulled the hand brake and engaged the vehicle in gear. If you have never done this before you might feel a little intimidated. However, there is nothing difficult about it. If your vehicle has ultra low ground clearance, you have to be a little careful where the vessel's folding platform meets the jetty. The hinges there are pretty fat. 

Once the vessel starts, it takes literally a few seconds to reach the other side. On this side the road is even better and keep driving straight. That's the only road in this delta island. It will not seem like an island because you cannot see the sea from the road. If you drive straight you hit Bakkhali. A little before Bak Khali if you turn left you reach Henry's Island. On the right hand side is Frazergunge. 

Bakkhali's tourism infrastructure is the best among these three. For birding Frazergunge is the best place as there is a small river (an off shoot from Ganga) and the confluence point is quite bird rich. 

Nalaban and Manglajodi

Chilika Lake from Nalaban Tower 3

In the third week of January I had one of the best birding experiences of my life when I went to Manglajodi and Nalaban in Orissa with friends and fellow birders like Partha Sen, Suranjan Mukherjee, Suman Pal and Subhasish Debgupta. Our friend Arijit Banerjee was supposed to go with us and had organised everything through the head of Chilika Development Authority (CDA), Mr Ajit Patnaik who was our host. However, at the last moment he had to drop out due to some official commitment. 

The journey started from Howrah on Friday night (18th January, 2013) when we boarded the Puri Express. At around 5 in the morning we got down at Bhubaneswar where a Tavera was waiting for us. We went to the forest department's guest house in the city to "freshen up" (essentially meaning rushing to the loo) and then embarked upon the journey. Our immediate destination is Manglajodi where we will go birding till evening. From there we will go to the CDA guest house in Balugaon to spend the night.

Next morning (Sunday) we would go to Nalaban - an island in the middle of Chilika - in a boat. Nalaban is famous for its flamingoes and other migratory birds. The next morning (Monday) we would go back to Manglajodi and from there to Bhubaneswar to catch the overnight train to Calcutta. 

Northern Pintail at Manglajodi

Ravangla & Lava - 2012

The Preparation

Today is Wednesday, 28th of March 2012. We are almost ready for our next trip starting Friday evening, 30th March. We are leaving for New Jalpaiguri (NJP) by train - Uttarbanga Express. Starts from Sealdah at around 7 pm. Friday is a working day for me, which is a pain.

The plan is to go from NJP to Ravangla by car on Saturday. Stay there for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday leave for Lava. Spend Thursday and Friday there. Go to Bagdogra on Saturday to catch the flight to Calcutta.

Let me put down a few important phone numbers of people who other travelers might need in future if they are planning a trip to this region. I myself might need these numbers after a year or so, as I certainly see myself going here once again.

First is the number of Arjun Gurung of Cloud's End. It is 9733084105. Arjun used to earlier work for the more famous Hotel Mt Narsingh but has now joined Cloud's End. He is offering me rooms at Rs 1500 per night. I am told Mt Narsingh's service standards have deteriorated. Babumasai is closed. So I chose Cloud's End. Somehow I liked speaking to the guy. Someone on Indiamike forum also recommended the property.

Cloud's End - 14th Mile, Ravangla. Simply fantastic

Arjun has organised a vehicle pick up for me. Jewan Chhetri 9733148087. He has an Alto and will start for Siliguri on Friday itself to pick us up on Saturday morning. He is charging Rs 3000 for the trip, which is perhaps a bit high for an Alto but I didn't want to bargain over phone. Somehow I have a lot of love for these mountain people.

In Lava I have been given two drivers' numbers. Arka recommended Jamyang Bhutia 9733048001. Garima Bhatia had used Dipen 9832434204 during her recent birding trip to Neora Valley. I am yet to speak to either of them but will find out soon. Arka says the rate is Rs 1200 fixed plus whatever fuel cost, as per actual. Let me see.

I have been to Ravangla for birding. That was in 2010 October. But the weather was terrible and we could hardly take any photographs. So here I am once again planning a trip to the same spot. Keeping my fingers crossed.

A verditer flycatcher from October 2010

Today is Friday, 30th March, 2012. Around 11 am. I am in the office. We leave by Uttarbanga Express at 7.30 pm from Sealdah. I finished packing my electronics this morning. Let me note down the items I am carrying. I have the main camera and related stuff in the big Lowepro. My recording equipment is in a small bag given by Canon for free. The smaller bag has the following:

1. Edirol recorder,
2. Rode Video Mic Pro microphone
3. Unbranded small speaker bought from Chandni.

The Lowepro contains the following:

1. Canon 7D with 400 mm F5.6
2. Canon 450D with 18-55 kit lens
3. Manual for 7D
4. Manual for 450D
5. Tokina 11-16 mm wide lens
6. Tamron 90 mm macro (with polariser fitted)
7. Manfrotto 496 RC2 ball head (for the 450D, as I don't have Acrastech plate for it)
8. Acratech GV2 ball head (lens plate fitted to the lens)
9. Rocket blower
10. iPod (1st generation)
11. Battery charger for 7D
12. Battery charger for 450D
13. Nokia charger
14. Battery charger for pencil batteries
15. Spare battery for 7D
16. Four Sony rechargable AA batteries (for Edirol)
17. Four Sony rechargeable AAA batteries (for Garmin)
18. 2 GB pen drive
19. Camera body covers for both cameras
20. Circular polariser for 77mm
21. Memory cards for both cameras and Edirol - 8GB x4 + 4GB in CF for 7D and about 30 GB SD card memory for 450 D and Edirol. Two memory cards in fact go into the 7D's strap.
22. Bushnell binoculars (for Mampu)
23. Torch
24. Swiss Army knife

Additional electronics and photography related items to be carried in the pocket of my jacket - Garmin Foretrex 101 and Lenspen lens cleaner. The Manfrotto 055 XPROB will be carried in a case.

I think I will go out right now and purchase an additional battery for my microphone. At 9 volt it's an odd size and will not be available anywhere outside a big city. I doubt that the one that I have in the mic will die soon but I don't want to take any chances.

I am just keeping a record of all this because these make for amusing reading later. There is no intention to flaunt anything to anyone. This is more in the nature of a personal diary for me to read later than a book written for others to read.

NB: The 25th item is the 9 volt Duracell battery for the microphone. I just went out and bought it from my battery supply store next to Sahara Sadan for Rs 150.

A Blue-capped Rock Thrush male just below Kitam, Sikkim

Today is Monday 9th April, 2012. We are back in Calcutta. In fact we came back on Saturday evening. All in one piece and without any major injury or loss of either limbs or materials :-) In terms of photography or bird sighting it was nothing great. We saw the usual routine birds. Highlight of the trip was perhaps the sighting of a Pygmy Wren Babbler near Kolakham. In terms of weather - it could have been better and sunnier. It rained a lot even in this April first week. Ravangla and Lava were very cold compared to what we were prepared for. But on balance it was a nice trip and we will look back at our memories with fondness.

Ralong monastery near Ravangla

Now, I shall write down the details of the trip on a day by day basis. I tend to forget a lot these days and hopefully this will remain as a database for my future trips.

Friday 30th March, 2012. It was a full working day for me. But I left office in the second half just after lunch break and left home at around quarter to five to fetch a taxi. We were in the station well before six. So we had to wait it out at the station for a while. Soon it was announced that all North Bengal bound trains, because of a goods train accident on the main line, would go via Naihati, Bandel, Katwa, Azimgunge etc instead of the normal route via Bardhaman and Rampurhat etc.

This had two effects on the journey. One positive and another negative. The positive effect was the person just under my berth, who was supposed to board from Bardhaman, missed his train and we swapped one of our berths with his unoccupied berth so Monisha, Mampu and I were more or less together (otherwise Monisha had got a berth quite far from mine).

The negative effect was the train was late by more than three hours and we reached New Jalpaiguri at around 10.30. We had already booked our car and Jewan Chhetri had to wait at NJP for a few hours. We found him to be a nice guy in his mid-twenties. We didn't waste a single moment and started off for Ravangla in right earnest.

  

The red cresteds of Purbasthali

Purbasthali is a charming little place in the Burdwan district of South Bengal. There is a fresh water oxbow lake there on the bank of the Ganga which plays host to a lot of migratory birds in the winter months. Over the last few years the number of such visitors has gone down rather drastically due to various man made factors. But Purbasthali still holds it charm for me, perhaps because it all started for me from here.

A few years ago, I had come here with my wife, daughter and my in-laws on our way back to Calcutta from Katwa. Ever since that fateful day in 2008, I got sucked deeper into the hobby of bird watching and photography. I have gone to many birding hotspots but Purbasthali has not lost its charm for me yet. But I must confess it is getting seriously difficult to stay attracted to Purbasthali.

This year, that is in 2012, we went to Purbasthali twice. Once as a day trip with Partha, Suranjan and Suman and once again with Monisha, Partha and Suman. On this second occassion we stayed overnight at the Parijayee Abas - a small spartan lodge maintained there by the local Panchayat Samiti.

In case you came across this site looking for information on how to go to Purbasthali - there are two ways. You take the Katwa local from Howrah or Sealdah. Purbasthali railway station is right next to Nabadwip. From the railway station you could take a van rickshaw to Kasthasali or Chupi Char. It's not more than 10/15 minutes.

By road you come via Memari to Kusumgram. Turn right at Kusumgram and go to Nadanghat (a few KM after Kusumgram there is a left exit towards Nadanghat - contiuing on the straight road would take you to Kalna). Turn left at Nadanghat towards Purbasthali. This straight road goes to Katwa. Turn right from the state highway near Purbasthali Bazaar. Cross the level crossing and go to Kasthasali.

Manglajodi Marshes

I had first read about Manglajodi from a post by our friend and fellow member of Birdphotoindia Bikramaditya Guha Roy a few years ago. After that a few of our other birding friends like Somadi and Maitreyeedi went there from Calcutta and brought some fabulous photographs. But I had to wait till January 22nd of 2012 to go to the Manglajodi marshes. The co-birders on this trip were Partha, Suranjan and Suman. 

Black-tailed Godwits displaying their strength to a lone Marsh Harrier circling above 

Going to Manglajodi from Calcutta is fairly simple. We boarded the Madras Mail from Howrah at 11:45 pm in the night. It reached Balugaon at around 8:15 where a taxi was waiting for us. We first went to Mr Bhujbal's house in Tangi which is off the main highway towards Bhubaneswar. Had breakfast in the town and then off to the marshes of Manglajodi. Total driving time is about an hour. The Yashwantpur Express is perhaps more convenient as it reaches Balugaon a couple of hours before which gives you more time at the marsh on the first day.

Mr Bhujbal is the man who made Manglajodi into what it is today - a safe haven for birds. It was not so even a few years ago. Locals used to regularly poach on the winter visitors for money (you cannot really blame them as there is hardly any other economic activity in that region and it is difficult not to poach for money in that scenario). A greylag goose would fetch them Rs 600 or a purple moorhen would go for Rs 30. 

Mr Bhujbal convinced the poachers to turn into protectors. Of course it took him years. Today people like Madhu and Sadhu who used to kill thousands of birds every day even a few years ago, guide tourists and show them the birds with a pair of binoculars and a Salim Ali field guide. In the evening they sit together in the cooperative office to discuss what new birds they saw and where etc. 

This dramatic change happened because of the persistent efforts of Mr Bhujbal since the early 90s of the previous century. A very soft spoken nature lover with deep roots in the rustic heartland of Orissa, Mr Bhujbal is not an English speaking sophisticated city-bred birder. I have to one day sit with him and dig out his story. He has a special place in his heart for my family because my wife Monisha speaks fluent Oriya and she used to keep communicating with him about our visit.

Mr Bhujbal had arranged the taxi, hotel, boat and of course the guides in Manglajodi. I am oath bound to bring Monisha during my next visit. He is probably in his late 50s or early 60s. He has had a cerebral stroke, he said and that's why doesn't go to the marshes very often. 

Manglajodi is a safe haven now for these fast disappearing Ruddy Shelducks - winter visitors from across the Himalayas

Here I will post some of the images that I shot during the two-day stay so that it serves as a guide for future travellers. The bird names are given below the images

A Cinnamon Bittern

Booted Warbler

Grey Heron

Oriental Skylark

Oriental Pratincole

Streaked Weaver

Pied Kingfisher pair. Male on left and female on right

Northern Pintail

Ruddy-breasted Crake

Northern Shoveler

Now a few mundane details about the place and logistics. We had initially wanted to stay at the marsh itself. Paying little heed to Mr Bhujbal's advice we did not book any hotel in Balugaon. But upon arrival at the Samity office where we were shown the floor of the office hall we realised that it was not possible for us any more to spend a night in such spartan surroundings. The dirty bathroom, with no running water, was the final nail on the coffin. We decided to stay in Balugaon. This added to the overall cost of commute - Rs 800 each way - and more importantly lost time in the morning birding hour.

As a student, particularly while hiking in the high Himalayas, we have stayed in worse accomodations. But here somehow we realised that we have grown up a bit. The evening chat session at Balugaon's Digantika hotel was highly enjoyable. Suranjan had brought a Single Malt and we didn't spoil its taste with any added water.

We realised to our pleasant surprise that it's been a long time that any of us had travelled in a stag group of close friends like this. We didn't eat our dinner at Avantika but as advised by the taxi driver Durga (09777650472) we had it at a road side dhaba across the hotel. Good food at affordable cost. On retrospect, next time I would like to go in my own car. It will save us a lot of money in commute. Only problem is the waste of two days in going and coming back.